A walking target after dark .. to.. embracing change!

I’d like to take this opportunity to write on some experiences I felt the night of the match in Uruguay, as they reflect a common sentiments that I’ve often felt in BsAs as well.

As soon as the sun started setting the night of the game, I found myself once again contemplating whether I should begin to head home, or in this case heading back to the hostel, before darkness set in; I needed to consider whether I’d have company walking home or whether I’d be able to find a taxi home easily.

After dark, my difference, not so much based on my nationality, but the difference and increased vulnerability I face as a woman, is much more pronounced. I feel like a walking target, more so when I’m alone. This is a strange feeling for me because I have always been independent and am not one to give up my independence easily.

Furthermore, I do not at all like to succumb to the idea of needing a man, simply due to his biological sex, to protect me. I feel comfortable in my own skin. Here though, I’ve realized that if I need to walk alone after dark, I find myself trying to blend in as much as possible as to not attract attention. I do not appear frightened or worried, but I am quite conscious of what many of these men are thinking when they stand on the side of the street or walk by me sending kisses and winks my way, looking at me in a way that makes me feel bare, making provocative remarks as I walk down the street, or biting their lips, and smiling.

It’s been very unsettling for me to notice this fear/insecurity/lack of confidence in myself. (mom, I can almost hear you saying, sweetheart be careful!! don't worry mom...I am, I promise...) I constantly find myself repeating an inner dialogue telling me to let it go, to keep walking without much regard to this behavior, as it is just a new cultural norm to get used to. This type of teasing behavior is expected of men here due to the widespread culture of ‘machismo’ among the male population, and thus, not outwardly condemned by men or women. Don't get me wrong, this is not all men. Second, teasing is mostly just what is it. Most do not go further than this.

In addition to this inner dialogue I have, I also, of course, take extra precautions such as taking a backpack instead of a purse (many people wear their backpacks in the front esp. in the subway - not only tourists) and trying not to be out on my own after dark (although this is not always possible because its winter here in Argentina and it gets dark quite early), and trying to avoid ! At the same time, I am getting more comfortable as I get to know my neighborhood better, and life is good :)

One more caveat: Focusing on sameness not difference

I sometimes try and stay on my cell phone, even just in order to feel that sense of companionship as I walk through the dimly lit and quiet nights. However, in that moment that I pull out my cell phone, I begin to feel almost like a double target, not only because of my gender, but also due to the $$$ signs that are then prescribed to me (in certain neighborhoods). As I recently commented on another friend’s blog: although I do not define myself by my gender, I often feel that is the first and sometimes only characteristic that others see when they look at me; if there is a second defining characteristic, it is that I am a foreigner. An inviting target perhaps where poverty, lack of access to basic human rights and opportunities are the norm…

Despite the nervous feeling I sometimes get, and the despite the change in behavior that I have had to conform to for reasons of safety and security, things so far have been great, and I am positive that they will continue this way. Taxi drivers have been so kind, waiting for me until I enter my door at night (without being requested to do so), always advising me to be careful as a woman in Buenos Aires, not carry a purse etc.

Daytime also is perfectly fine, just the ordinary caution that one would take anywhere he/she goes. The city is beautiful, incredible, and its diversity cannot be overstated. Furthermore, I don’t think for a moment that these feelings of insecurity are unique to BsAs, Argentina or Latin America. Very similar occurrences happen frequent on some streets of Toronto even! It’s challenging, we’ll overcome it, and it will be a testament to our strength, insight, and adaptability.

At the end of the day: be cautious, have fun, EMBRACE CHANGE!

At the end of the day, I believe it’s fundamentally about embracing change. It’s about drive, determination, and enthusiasm to learn to tread through unfamiliar waters, knowing that you will succeed, and taking the steps necessary to make that happen.

So, to sum up the last few weeks, between soccer games, moving to a new apartment, welcoming winter vacation in Argentina, celebrating holidays such as the Day of the Flag and Independence Day, anticipating whether or not Argentina will be the first Latin American country to pass gay marriage legislation (which by the way, culminated in victory!), regular life in Argentina is once again starting to show its face.

I’ll end today’s blog with a wonderfully simple yet profound quote written by Senator Norma Morandini (a member of the president’s party in Argentina), in her support for the legalization of same-sex civil unions: "What defines us is our humanity, and what runs against humanity is intolerance."

If we can look past cultural and lingual differences, we’ll soon realize there is indeed a common thread of sameness that unites us. We all have the same basic needs, the same emotions that run through us. Better yet, if we do not enter with preconceptions at all, we will be able to readily absorb much of what is going on around us, as opposed to searching for comfort through McDonald’s, Starbucks, and Hard Rock Café in the new countries we are in, and more in the company of the wonderful local people, partaking in their customs, drinking their coffee, and exploring their country without regret or reservation :)

Until next time...take care and keep smiling...

Aliza

2010 World Cup

Mid-July! Wow, how the time has flown by. Everywhere I go, I'm constantly noticing new subtleties and gaining a deeper appreciation for my environment here in Buenos Aires. Thankfully, my pen and journal have never been too far behind. I’ve been working on this blog post (and the next one) for quite some time, but keep adding things and not able to post! I am excited to share some of these experiences and feelings with you now.

Argentina has been a country characterized by anticipation, excitement, laughter and tears for the past few weeks.

June 12. Shops closed..deserted streets..silence in a city that never sleeps..no taxis..no cars - in a city overly congested with traffic, air and noise pollution at all hours of any day and night?! Bizarre! What happened?!

--> Four words: FIFA 2010 World Cup. :)

We watched with faith, pride and joy as Argentina won their first, second, third, and fourth matches in the World Cup! We were silenced and devastated by the way “we” were eliminated during the quarter finals (*note: engulfed in a feeling of total unity with my new host country). July 9, Independence Day. I took advantage of the long weekend and took a night bus to Uruguay to arrive in its capital city, Montevideo, the day of its final match against Germany: what a sight! What celebration! Drums, firecrackers, noisemakers, cheering, chanting, face paint, glitter, flags, empanadas being fried and peanuts being sugared at every block, streets closed, light blue jerseys (Uruguay) in front of you, behind you, above you, for meters and meters. We stood up once again in restaurants and city squares as Uruguay played a fantastic final match.

At the end: a final score of 2:3 Germany. What followed however was an unexpected and incredible display of Uruguayan nationalism at its best. The final loss did not at all deter the proud fans of Uruguay. The game itself was victory enough. The Uruguay selection had done its country proud and the celebrations could be heard through our bedroom windows until far into the night. (side note: I ducked into an internet café through all the celebrations…only to make a new Uruguayan friend who had friends living in North York and studying at York U!! What a small world! Brought the whole experience home again :) )

The day after Uruguay’s final match, we prepared for the day that soccer fans around the world had been waiting for. We watched with the world, at the edges of our seats, as Spain and the Netherlands played the final game of the World Cup. When Spain took the 2010 World Cup with zeal, the energy of the crowd was sensational!

Back in Argentina the following day, it was clear that Argentineans too were very proud of Spain’s victory (probably also because so many of them are of Spanish descent). The characteristic excitement and enthusiasm of Buenos Aires was back! Spain’s victory was the topic of conversation all over the city in cafes, in the subway, on the radio, and in taxi cabs, for at least the next few days.

Arrival & First few days in Buenos Aires

Arrived in Buenos Aires on May 29 and moved into my new place. Beautiful, quaint home, two housemates - also students here, lots of natural sunlight, its perfect.

May 31: Great day. In the morning, walked to the laundromat two blocks from my house to drop laundry. Then went to a store where they sell fruits and vegetables. Then next door to an organic store and then to the supermarket to buy yogurt, milk etc! SO nice to buy local! And, after three weeks on the road, can't wait to finally start preparing and eating some home-cooked meals!

In the afternoon, had my first Spanish class. Took a bus and metro (train) - an hour away, but very pleasant. People discreetly selling small items in between metro stops, a guy set up on guitar, playing songs for us all, people clapping for him before every stop, was great! Spanish class was excellent as well, as were the students and professor. When I left school at 5:30pm, it was already dark! (winter is just beginning here in Argentina...) Got back on the metro, only to realize what a rush it is in the evening!! Barely found standing room! Oh yes, and if you come to Buenos Aires, hold on to all the change you can - no one wants to give it up AND it's necessary for public transportation!!

Today, I've just finished my third day of Spanish classes. Enjoying each day, taking in all the sights, scents, sounds, tastes, and protests - extremely passionate, yet peaceful! Yes, politics are currently on the minds of all Argentinians and on the streets of Buenos Aires. The government is in the process of determining whether they will be the first Latin American country to legalize gay marriage. In a country as Catholic as this one, it will be very interesting to watch the progress of this movement. Stay tuned!!

My plans for upcoming weeks: 3 weeks of Spanish classes, with the third week overlapping with my first week of my internship!

Quote of the day: "Always be ready to have the time of your life" - Heidi Wills

Travel in Brazil (May 16-27, 2010)

May 16-27: Brazil

Travel in Brazil was amazing (Rio:beautiful beaches, people, culture, music and food; highlight: paragliding!, Ilha Grande: gorgeous, isolated, island paradise, best seafood of our lives! Salvador: Afro-Brazilian city - great street scene - vendors, music).

Language was an interesting barrier - with me trying to speak a mix of Spanish and English to Portuguese-speaking Brazilians! Best part was that even though they struggled to understand me, they thought my Spanish was impeccable! Now that I'm in Argentina, I'll have to work a lot harder to get such a complement but I still have all summer! :)

Weather: Unfortunately, Vancouver weather followed us everywhere we went - rain, clouds, etc. But we made the best of it and it reminded me of home.

May 27: we crossed the border from Foz de Iguacu (Brazil) over to Iguazu Falls (ARG). The pressure, the sound, the sheer expanse of the falls, mist of the water..breathtaking. Here's a video for a glimpse. But if you ever get the chance, even five minutes of experiencing this beautiful wonder is worth it!

Following the Falls, took an 18hr bus back to Buenos Aires. The buses of Argentina have a reputation around South America to be the Emirates of buses! The rumors were as true as they sounded and we definitely got the rest we were craving. Waiters, blankets, pillows, 180degrees reclining seats, full hot dinner included, drinks, movies, coffee and cookies, all included and served in platters!! Unfortunately, I booked cama ejecutivo (or executive bed) which doesn't recline all the way nor do they have leather seats (that would have been caja suite for $2.50 more!)...next time...but still the best bus experience of our lives.

Internet access may be limited so here is my tentative itinerary:

May 10: TO --> Buenos Aires, Argentina via Santiago, Chile.

May 14: Buenos Aires --> Rio de Janiero, Brazil

May 15-May 29: Travel through S. Brazil, Iguazu Falls, possibly Uruguay and back to Buenos Aires.

June: Spanish classes in Buenos Aires

Mid-June: Begin internship!

August 26: Fly home!

Objective: To research ´access to health´ in rural Argentina(in particular, the effects of Chagas disease on the native and rural populations of Argentina). To compile data through SPSS and analyze particular trends that result from the (qualitative and quantitative) social scientific research recently compiled in the region. Finally, to study the recent land reforms in the Argentinian Constitution and link ´access to land´ with ´access to health´ in the areas affected by Chagas disease.

Will write more as I learn!!

Day 1: Buenos Aires

So May 10 fly to Buenos Aires (BsAs). Stop over in Santiago, Chile.

Sky in BsAs: gorgeous!